More than once many have faced a situation where their favorite headphones stopped working. What to do, not a rare phenomenon. You can of course buy new ones, but weaving the wire on the old ones is much cheaper, and most importantly, there is nothing complicated in this. Below I want to bring a couple of elementary ways that can come in handy in life and save some money, and they, in turn, can be spent on ice cream, a trip to the movie with a girl or on any other thing.

Since I myself am also a “master”, therefore, in the jungle of steam stations, soldering pastes, rolling up and selecting capacitors and resistors, manufacturing printed circuit boards, I will not climb. However, the one who is interested in is probably already familiar with the basics and he has nothing to do here.

Necessary tools.

It is natural to start with the main set. Which should include, of course, the soldering iron, flux, solder and a couple of additional devices that greatly facilitate the process.

Soldering iron – the simplest electric end \ rod will come down.

Good, the higher the power, the better, but for the adhesion of two wires at home, there will be enough soldering iron for 25-40 watts for the eyes. Large and powerful, it is inconvenient to solder small details. On the other hand, if you, for example, were impatient to solder the vehicle wiring, in the winter, in a cold garage, then 25 quilted jacket can seriously upset you. But these are already subtleties.

Flus – perhaps there are 3 most common species for home use: rosin, aspirin (the same, in tablets) and soldering acid.
Caniphol and soldering acid are most convenient and both are needed, but for different purposes. Acid, despite the name, is absolutely safe, but it is not worth drinking and filling it in the eyes, and if it hits the mucous membranes, you should immediately rinse those with clean water.

Solder – there is nothing to rack here. Soft pods based on tin – our choice.

-stand for a soldering iron (you need to put it somewhere, while it is temporarily not needed, without afraid to burn the apartment at the same time).
There is a small trick, it is convenient to add a couple of clamps such as a “crocodile” to the stand so that small details can be fixed in them and you do not have to keep them on weight.

– tweezers / pliers (ideally, both if the handles are iron, it would be nice to wrap it with a layer of isolets so that the hands do not burn when working)

– Skot \ Island (the latter is preferable)

– Cambrics. Elastic rubber https://casino-moana.uk/mobile-app/ tubes. (so that when weathing a pair of wires, there are no motorcels from island better to use them. It will look much more civil, besides they are more reliable)

A piece of slightly larger than the expected place of adhesion, dresses on one of the wires before the adhesion. After the adhesion, it is carefully pulled, thereby replacing the island. (you need to solder carefully, if there is a hefty whore out of solder, then it will interfere with pulling on Cambrics)

– Ideally – manicure with a bent tip, it can be very convenient to trim and relieve insulation.

– The blade. It is also often convenient for them to remove insulation from the wires.

– A brush. For applying soldering acid.

– a piece of sandpaper or knife. For stripping everyone.

– Wood. For poking the sting of the soldering iron. If the stand under the soldering iron is wooden, then you can do it and it.

– Newspaper. Do not rush to throw out advertising free newspapers and do not disdain large advertising booklets. They can help save the workplace from plowing and other troubles. In addition, often after work, a lot of small garbage is formed, which is convenient to throw out with the newspaper, and not sweep out of the table.

The soldering process itself is a coating with a molten solder of two surfaces that require. This is carried out due to the fact that heated on a pity of the soldering iron, the solder becomes liquid, and cooling in the air again quickly hardens. That is, it is required to press the surfaces to each other requiring adhesions, in the position in which they should be as a result, after which we melt a little solder on the tip of the sting of the soldering iron and apply it to the place of alleged adhesion. As soon as the spike site warms up, the solder is growing on the surface and the sting can be removed. If everything worked out, after a few seconds the solder will freeze and fix the details.
This, in fact, is perhaps the simplest part of the process. True, significant dexterity and training are required so that everything turns out smoothly and beautifully (I still can’t do it so far). Much more "wisdom" in preparation for this process.

We miss an elementary arrangement of accessories in places, the purchase of the desired parts and the inclusion of a soldering iron in a socket.

Clean the steel of the soldering iron from soot and other nasty things. To do this, you can use sandpaper, but you need to do everything, of course, on the turned off and cold device.

There are many ways to relieve insulation. You can pick up with manicure scissors if the wire is fat enough. Can be carefully cut off with a blade. You can even fuse a soldering iron, but this barbarism can complicate the process of further stripping, and you will have to clean the soldering iron again. In general ways are full, here you already need to build on a specific situation.

Also, if the surface of the parts at the site of the alleged adhesion is very pledged, then you must first clean it with “landed” methods, using the same sandpaper or knife.

We clean the surface with a flux. Actually, this is one of his destinations – to remove all sorts of oxidations and other raids that prevent the solder from “attaching” to the metal. It is especially worth noting that often the wires of branded and not very headphones are covered with an additional insulating composition that will not let you produce the soldering process. I don’t know how aspirin, but rosin takes it poorly, but soldering acid at a time. But after processing it, you need to wash it off or wipe it with a cloth, because when soldering wires and small radio components, it can harm.

“Mark” the sting of a heated soldering iron into rosin, after which we process the necessary surface to them.
In soldering acid, the part can dull stupidly or apply to the surface with a brush. After which, it does not interfere with walking on top with a heated soldering iron.

Clean the details should be shine.

Poking is a coating of parts with a thin layer of solder. This procedure should also be carried out with the sting of the soldering iron itself.

We dip the soldering iron in rosin, then melt a little solder and smear it on the working surface of the sting, rubbing the latter about a piece of wood or any other more or less clean, not grumbling and not fuse surface.
The part should be treated with rosin (the wire can simply be put on its piece and warmly warm with a soldering iron), after which it is slow to drive on the surface with hot puddled sting (you can first melt a little more solder).

This process is necessary for a better distribution of solder over the surface, more reliable contact and relief of the soldering process itself.

Another something.
It is not necessary to regret the solder, but a large number of it leads to the appearance of healthy and ugly huts. That is, not at all like in underground factories among the Chinese. Practice and experience solve here. In any case, it is supposed to be hidden in the spike place under insulation, so it’s okay if the result looks clumsy.

It is always desirable to have pieces of wires of different crossings at hand. Including, insulation from wires of larger diameter can be used as impromptu cambrices for less. A set of standard plots Jack 3.5 and RCA (tulip) will not hurt, so as not to run to the store every time.

You can solder and plastic. The difference is that instead of solder, its pieces are used, and the surface must first just degrease and wipe.

A little about the stereo wires of headphones and audio equipment.
They usually go three or four wires in them. Two channels (usually left – green, right – red) and return \ mass \ central channel (called differently, but not the essence, usually either black \ gray, or without a separate isolation in general).